Drinks by theme

Christmas Drinks From History: Wassail, Smoking Bishop, Negus and Tom and Jerry

Old Christmas drinks from period books: wassail, lambswool, smoking bishop, negus, mulled wine, punch, eggnog and Tom and Jerry, with alcohol-free versions.

Updated

Pen drawing of a stout old butler in a long coat leaning over a dinner table to set down a huge steaming footed bowl with a ladle in it, among wine glasses and a decanter.
The butler brings in the wassail bowl. Drawing by Randolph Caldecott for Washington Irving’s Old Christmas (London: Macmillan, 1876), p. 132. Wellcome Collection copy.

Make it today

Start here

What did people drink at Christmas in the past?

Mostly hot drinks from a shared bowl or jug: wassail and lambswool in the English country house, punch, mulled wine and smoking bishop in the Victorian parlor, eggnog and the Tom and Jerry at the American bar. Children had negus, well watered, and lemonade.

The oldest of them is the wassail bowl. Robert Herrick’s of 1648 held ale with sugar, nutmeg and ginger, later accounts float roasted apples and toast in it, and it went round between Christmas and Twelfth Night. Sir Kenelm Digby’s cookbook of 1669 made a rich posset of cream and sack for the same season.

The Victorians served their Christmas hot. When the Ghost of Christmas Present appears in A Christmas Carol (1843), the room holds “seething bowls of punch,” and on Christmas morning Scrooge promises Bob Cratchit “a Christmas bowl of smoking bishop,” port poured over a roasted lemon stuck with cloves, as Oxford printed it in 1847. Mrs. Beeton mixed her hot punch of rum and brandy with boiling water. In the workhouse, the one drink of the year was a pint of stout with dinner; in the street, the poor bought hot elder wine at a halfpenny a glass.

Across the Atlantic, Jerry Thomas’s bar book of 1862 printed the eggnog and the Tom and Jerry, and further east a Polish Christmas Eve supper ended with prune kompot.

Most of these drinks have an alcohol-free version here, made from the original recipe: spiced apple juice in the wassail bowl, grape juice in the bishop and the negus, hot milk under the Tom and Jerry batter.

We will discuss your affairs this very afternoon, over a Christmas bowl of smoking bishop, Bob!

Charles Dickens, A Christmas Carol (1843)

What is wassail and how was it made?

A hot bowl of ale, sugar and spices with roasted apples floating in it, passed round from Christmas to Twelfth Night. Lambswool is the same drink by another name.

What did Victorians drink at Christmas?

Punch, mulled wine, negus and smoking bishop, nearly all of them hot. Each has an alcohol-free partner here for children and drivers.

The whole Victorian Christmas, from the parlor punch bowl to the street, is in Victorian Christmas Drinks, from Punch to Elder Wine.

What is smoking bishop?

Hot spiced port poured over a lemon stuck with cloves and roasted by the fire, served steaming from a bowl. Oxford Night Caps printed it that way in 1847, four years after Scrooge promised Bob Cratchit “a Christmas bowl of smoking bishop.” Dickens gave no recipe, and “smoking” meant hot enough to steam.

The bowl Scrooge promised, and the oranges Swift put in it, are in What Was Smoking Bishop, the Drink in A Christmas Carol?.

What did the Victorian poor drink at Christmas?

In the workhouse, a single pint of beer or stout with the Christmas dinner, the one day of the year, sickness apart, when it was allowed, and only where the Guardians agreed. Outside the walls, the London poor bought hot elder wine in the street at a halfpenny a glass, about 25p today by UK consumer prices (Bank of England), and the temperance societies offered them tea.

The workhouse dinner and the street urn are in A Pint of Stout on Christmas Day: What the Victorian Poor Drank.

What did Victorians drink at Christmas without alcohol?

Tea at the tea table and lemonade later in the evening, at children’s parties, and tea again at the temperance societies’ Christmas festivals. An 1869 book of cups poured boiling water over baked apples, ginger and lemon peel. Our alcohol-free bishop, negus and wassail keep the period method with grape or apple juice in place of the wine and ale.

What the children drank, negus included, is in What Did Victorian Children Drink at Christmas?.

How was eggnog first made?

Jerry Thomas’s 1862 version shakes one egg, sugar, Cognac and rum with milk and ice. His Tom and Jerry stirs a spoonful of spiced egg batter into brandy and boiling water.

A clear tumbler of dark amber hot rum holds melting butter, cloves and allspice beside a butter dish on dark oak against a brick-red wall.

Hot Drinks · 5 min total

Hot Spiced Rum with Butter, from 1862 

A teaspoon of sugar, a wine-glass of Jamaica rum, allspice and cloves, and a piece of butter the size of half a chestnut, filled up with hot water: Jerry Thomas’s hot spiced rum of 1862.

What are good old Christmas drinks without alcohol?

Spiced apple, hot grape and blackcurrant, cranberry syrup for tea and a Polish prune kompot. Every drink in this group is alcohol-free.

The full list

All 33 recipes

Search recipe names and ingredients in this curated collection. For a wider search, browse all recipes.

Sort & filter33 recipes

33 recipes in Christmas Drinks From History: Wassail, Smoking Bishop, Negus and Tom and Jerry