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Old-Fashioned Sodas: Soda Fountain Drinks, Root Beer and Ginger Beer

Old-fashioned sodas from period manuals: phosphates, the egg cream, ice cream sodas, root beer and sarsaparilla, ginger beer, spruce beer and kvass.

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Halftone photograph of a long carved soda fountain with two canopies, lattice panels and hanging lamps, four men in white jackets behind the counter, one pouring a drink in a long arc, and men in bowler hats on stools at either end.
“Saxe’s Large Canopy Top Apparatus. 30 feet long, with 35 foot Counter.” Plate in Saxe’s New Guide, or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers (1894).

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What were old-fashioned sodas?

Flavored syrups drawn with carbonated water at a drugstore soda fountain, and the home-brewed sodas that came before them: ginger beer, spruce beer, root beer and kvass. The fountain drinks had no alcohol; the brewed ones, worked with yeast in a sealed bottle, had a little.

The fountain began in the pharmacy. A. Emil Hiss’s Standard Manual of Soda and Other Beverages (Chicago, 1897), written for druggists and confectioners, says the trade started as “an attempt of early chemists to imitate famous medicinal springs,” and that soda water, “on account of its presumed medicinal character,” had always been part of the druggist’s stock. The word “presumed” is his.

The dispensers’ manuals, James W. Tufts’s Book of Directions (Boston, 1890), De Forest Saxe’s New Guide (Chicago, 1894) and Hiss’s, give the phosphates, soured with acid phosphate from the druggist’s shelf; the egg drinks; the ice cream sodas; and root beer drawn from a syrup and drunk at once. In winter the same counter served hot ginger and malted milk.

Home brewing was older and less predictable. A New York druggist’s handbill of about 1804 sold essence of spruce for a “most wholesome agreeable table beer,” and a Russian household book of 1887 made bread kvass in a day. In 1916 a Philadelphia pharmacist bottled root beer at home “strictly according to directions” and measured up to 1.52 per cent alcohol after eleven days.

Most recipes below come from the manuals and household books of their day; the modern ones, like our sarsaparilla root beer syrup, say so.

An attempt of early chemists to imitate famous medicinal springs.

A. Emil Hiss, The Standard Manual of Soda and Other Beverages (Chicago, 1897)

What is a phosphate soda?

A fruit syrup and soda water sharpened with a spoonful of acid phosphate, the soda fountain’s sour. Shake in a whole egg and it becomes an egg phosphate.

What is an egg cream made of?

Today, chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer, with no egg and no cream. The 1897 manual’s egg cream had both, drawn with soda water; the ice cream soda put a scoop in the glass.

Did old-fashioned root beer have alcohol?

Root beer drawn from a syrup with soda water had none worth measuring. Brewed at home with yeast in a sealed bottle, it reached 1.52 per cent in eleven days in a 1916 test. Our sarsaparilla syrup and spruce soda have no yeast.

Which old sodas were brewed with yeast?

Spruce beer and kvass were bottled while the yeast was still working, which gave them their fizz and a little alcohol. Our alcohol-free kvass skips the yeast.

What did soda fountains sell in winter?

Hot drinks from the same counter, served in mugs: hot ginger, hot egg lemonade and malted milk seasoned with salt and pepper. None has any alcohol.

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20 recipes in Old-Fashioned Sodas: Soda Fountain Drinks, Root Beer and Ginger Beer